Car MOTs At Probably The Best Price In Cambridge – From Only £27
The first thing to understand about your MoT Test is that Mot’s DON’T have to cost a lot.
The maximum cost of an MoT is set by the government and VOSA, but all MoT testing Stations are able to charge whatever they choose below this.
C&R pre-check and provide MoT’s on literally thousands of Cambridge cars and small vans….. andas always, we aim to do it all at the best possible price for you.
That means –
- You won’t ever have to pay top price for a Cambridge MoT test
- You’re guaranteed a quality VOSA approved MoT test
- We’ll do our very best to ensure your vehicle passes with a minimum of stress and hassle.
- If anything needs fixing, we’ll let you know the likely cost and aim to get it all done the same day
- Currently the normal fee for an MoT is over £54, but if you look at our offers, you can get a nice and cheap MoTprice of over 50% off (saving a whopping £27+)
Typical Questions People Have About Their MoT……..
Q: Just because it’s cheap, is it more likely to fail?
A: Not at all. All MoT tests are conducted by approved MoT Testing stations, and (no matter what price they’re charged at), are required to follow the same strict procedures. Any MoT testing station who failed more vehicles than acceptable would quickly find themselves in trouble with the VOSA.
Q: Why do companies promote cheaper MOT tests?
A:It’s simple.If we do a good job, and you’re happy, you’re potentially a customer for life.
Between 30-40% of cars fail their MOT and since many customers will choose to have their car repaired with their MOT provider, offering a ‘discount’ or ‘money off voucher’ to get you to visit makes perfect business sense.
And the reality is that your car is no more likely to fail with a cheap MOT offer than with an expensive one. In fact passing –or failing too many MOT’s will quickly get picked up by the VOSA and can put any MOT station at risk of losing its licence.
Many MOT’s fail for simple reasons. At C&R we run a free vehicle health check which acts as a pretty effective pre MOT check(please note we don’t check emissions or braking efficiency as part of the pre check) – but it is normally a great way of avoiding any unexpected surprises.
Ultimately, if you’re not satisfied with the way a test has been carried out, you can get an appeal form, either from the garage in question, from VOSA online, or via its MOT enquiries phone line and VOSA will re-test your car.
Q. I’m in a real hurry, how quickly can I book in?
A: Although we are very busy, we’ll always do our best to help you out with a problem and will always try to get you in at the time of your choosing.
Q. How long do I need to leave my car with you?
A:Each Mot test lasts around an hour and if you choose to leave your vehicle with us we’ll advise you of the test result the moment the test is complete.
Q. What does an MoT check?
A: The aim of an MoT is to ensure your vehicle is safe to operate on the road and meets environmental requirements such as C02 emissions or exhaust smoke. If you’d like to know more detail thislinkwill take you to an in depth list which details the specifics about what an MoT covers.
Q. Does an MoT mean my car is mechanically sound?
A: Unfortunately not. While the MoT does check things like shock absorbers, tyres, brakes and wipers etc. it is a check at that moment in time. And it doesn’t check things like engine valves, pumps, alternators and so on. For example Tyres at 1.7mm for will pass (with an advisory), but since 1.6mm is the legal limit will be very close to failing.
To be safe – you should have your vehicle checked regularly (we even do it for FREE with our 27 point vehicle health checks) and if necessary serviced to keep it in tip top condition.
Check our ‘useful tips’ section for more detailed information.
Q: Is there anything I can do to help my car pass its MoT?
A: Yes! Fortunately a large number of ‘failures’ are based around simple things such as tyre pressures, tyre condition, damaged wiper blades and mirrors, washer jets that don’t squirt and bulbs which don’t work……..all easily checked and fixed before your MoT.
Here’s a list of tips to help ensure your car passes first time.
Q: What if my car fails the MoT test?
The reasons a car fails the MoT are listed on the MoT failure certificate. Any faults specified must be fixed and the vehicle re-tested before a pass certificate can be issued.
Q: How much does a retest cost?
A: There is no retest fee if the vehicle is repaired at our site, and this will normally happen same day or by the following day. If you choose to get your repairs done elsewhere and return the vehicle within 10 working days, the retest charge is half of the normal VOSA initial test fee. If you return later than 10 days a full MoT Test is required at the normal VOSA rate.
Q: What if I don’t agree with the decision to fail my car?
A: VoSA set out specific procedures for appeals against an MoT failure. Initially you can ask your Testing Station for a VT17 form, or contact VoSA directly on their local number. No repair work should be carried out to your vehicle and the VoSA will arrange for a further MOT test and consider your appeal.
7Useful Tips About Your MoT
- The V.O.S.A. requires that all vehicles aged 3 years and above must be inspected and pass an M.O.T test.
- All tests are computerised and Test stations are linked directly to the V.O.S.A…….. so your car can be taxed online almost immediately after receiving an MOT pass.
- If you have your car- with a current MoT in place – tested……and it fails, your existing MoT becomes void and the vehicle should not be driven until the faults are fixed.
- REMEMBER ….an M.O.T. is a test of the vehicle at that moment in time. Should your tyres be as low as 1.7mm, (against a legal minimum limit of 1.6mm) and you immediately go off on a 500 mile trip, they may well become illegal during the journey!
- From a safety viewpoint, some things (such as tyres) can pass the M.O.T even if the tread is only a few mm above the legal 1.6mm……..which means tyres with a noticeably longer stopping distance will still pass an MOT. If this is the case you will be issued with an advisory notice by the testing station
- An MOT station can refuse to carry out the M.O.T. test if the rear seat or boot of your car is untidy, covered (including child buggies), or so full of rubbish that it would impede the testers ability to conduct the test to the required standards.
- The condition of the spare wheel and tyre is not part of the M.O.T.
Carrying Out Your Own MoT Pre-check In 10 Easy Steps.Or, if you’d rather not……
simply bring the car to C&R and we’ll do all this (and more) for FREE.
- 1. Headlights and indicators. Turn on your side lights, headlights, rear lights, fog lights, indicators and hazard lights. Also, check the condition of the lenses (the light covers to ensure they are not showing holes or large cracks).
- 2. Brake lights. Make sure you are near something which will allow you to see your brake lights (either just at rear left and right side, and sometimes as a supplementary strip), and depress brake pedal to check for light function. If you can’t do this, simply wedge something against the brake pedal (without the engine running) and walk to the back to check the lights.
- 3. Number plate. Both your number plates need to be clean, clear to read, and meet current legislation regarding the colour,(white on the front, yellow behind) the font and spacing of the letters and numbers.
- 4. Wheels and tyres. Check your tyres for the depth of tread (using the horizontal wear bars will help here). You are checking across the entire tyre surface –from inner edge to outer. Also check the sides for bulges, cuts or general damage. Tread depth must be over 1.6mm to pass, but remember once a tyre is below 3mm yourstopping distance increases greatly. Check steel wheels to ensure they are not out of shape, and alloy wheels for cracking.
- 5. Seatbelts and seats. All fitted seatbelts should move freely, lock if tugged sharply, and clip in and release correctly – they should also be undamaged throughout their length. The driver’s seat should be capable of movement both forward and backward.
- 6. Windscreen. Your windscreen will not necessarily fail an Mot because of chips in it – however this will depend both on the size (larger than 40mm generally across the windscreen) – or 10mm in the wiper swept area in front of the driver.
- 7. Windscreen wipers. Your wipers must work, be undamaged (no tears or holes) and be capable of keeping your windscreen clear and clean.
- 8. Screenwash. An empty screen wash bottle can be an MoT failure, so make sure you top it up before the test.
- 9. Horn. Press it, it needs to work.
- 10. Fuel and engine oil. It’s necessary for the MoT station to run your vehicle in order to conduct a thorough test. Low oil levels could place your vehicle at risk of engine damage, and low fuel could mean the vehicle can’t be run. Either way the testing station can refuse to carry out the test.
Of course, if you’d rather not do all this,
simply bring the car in to C&R and we’ll do all this (and more) for FREE.
What does an MOT cover?
An MOT checks a vehicles ‘safety systems’ and other vital components to make sure they can do the job they were designed for.
The test will check a range of things such as –
- The internal ABS warning light
- Footbrake travel and condition of the pedal rubber
- Operation of the servo assistance system
- Operation of the handbrake
Under bonnet –
- Master cylinder and servo unit
- Brake Pipe condition
- Under Vehicle
- Brake pipes
- Disks and drums
- Overall braking efficiency and balance
- Doors should be capable of latching and of being opened from both the inside and outside
Exhaust Emissions –
- These are checked using special equipment and are analysed to determine the levels of emissions and smoke that a vehicle emits. For example, diesel vehicles will have their engines run at high revs for a period of time so, unless you want an expensive repair bill, it is advisable to ensure that the Cambelts are in good condition before you have an MOT.
Fuel System –
- Fuel pipes are checked from the tank to the engine. All caps and seals should be in good operational condition and any leak is an automatic failure.
- Your horn needs to work properly, not be sequential multi-toned, and loud enough to be heard by pedestrians and vehicles
- Your lights, brake-lights, fog-lights, number-plate lamps and indicators will be checked to ensure they work correctly and are in good condition, and that the dip and main beam are at the correct levels. They also should not affect each other whilst in operation.
- These need to be in good condition, secure, and visible from the drivers seat.
Registration plates and Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) –
- Registration plates need to be clean, not faded, use correct letters and spacing, and not be cracked.
- The VIN number (required on all post August 1st 1980 vehicles) should be legible and clearly displayed.
Seats and Seat Belts –
- Seats must be secure and securable in an upright position, and Seat Belts must be securely fixed, lock and unlock, be in good condition, and retract – even if this means retracting manually.
- The steering wheel, column and shaft must be in good condition, secure and not have excessive play. The test will also assess things like the steering rack, couplings, power steering and joints and the nuts and bolts holding them in place.
- Steering rack gaiters and Constant Velocity (CV) boots are checked – A CV boot is basically a rubber protective sheath which helps protect delicate parts of the CV joint.
- Wheel bearings are also checked, together with metal and rubber bushes (large rubber washers) and all relevant nuts, bolts and split pins.
- All suspension is checked to ensure it is in a good and secure condition, and tested for ‘bounce’ to ensure they function correctly.
Tyres and Wheels –
- Tyres will be checked to ensure adequate tread depth (1.6mm throughout a continuous outer circumference band, across 3/4 of the tyre width). Tyres on the same axle should be the same size, and the correct specification for the vehicle (EG: Vans and MPV’s should run on heavy duty tyres capable of carrying a heavier load).
- All tyres should be in good condition, without any cuts, uneven wear, bulges or nails in them.
- Wheels will be checked for buckles, dents, cracks and distortion plus the correct number of wheel nuts and studs.
- There should not be any sharp edges or projections. Excessive Corrosion (a hole, or corrosion bad enough to significantly weaken the structure) within 30 cm of a designated area such as suspension, brakes, steering etc. will cause a vehicle to fail.
- This will be checked for general condition including cracks, chips larger than 10mm in your immediate line of vision, and larger than 40mm in the rest of the swept area will result in a fail.
- Washers and wipers must operate correctly and wipers should not be split or be generally damaged.